Warsaw

Capital City #8

The bus ride to Warsaw wasn't great. We'd booked bus tickets too late to actually get seats next to each other, and we didn't bring tea with us, presuming we would have a stop somewhere along the way where we could buy something. Fools! Who needs a meal stop on an 8-hour bus trip, from 3-10pm? Thankfully, we had a couple of those small bags of chips (we used up the last of our Lithuanian Litas on those) and a packet of biscuits. Not exactly a healthy diet.

[Speaking of biscuits, it's been hard to actually get proper biscuits anywhere; even in Canada we struggled to find anything close to a proper packet of biscuits.]

We stepped off the bus into the sweltering Polish evening, turned the corner and were immediately greeted by this:

We were later told about the building – the Palace of Culture and Science. Built in three years, it was meant to be a 'gift' to the Polish people from the Soviet people, but many still see it as a symbol of Soviet domination. Still, I can't help but be impressed, even if I did end up calling it the monstrosity during our time there.

Warsaw in general was an impressive place to arrive in, another marked shift coming from the Baltic states. There were massive skyscrapers all around, like any modern Western city - the most awesome (in the original sense) first impression of any of the places we've visited so far.

After wandering around looking at different buildings, unsure if we were at the right place, we called the number for our accommodation. We were at the right place, but the place had no reception, and we were expected to give them a call, which we weren't told in advance. This was our first experience of the cash culture that eastern and central Europe seem to have, as we were taken to an ATM to get out the required amount of Zloty.

I like Poland. It's an interesting place, the people seem friendly enough, and everything's quite cheap. We got an apartment in the centre of town for about the same price as we were paying for the worst motel on the outskirts of Quebec City.

The next morning we wandered into the old town:

We had a look inside the palace area at one of the exhibits about the Polish resistance. There was an uprising when the Soviet army was steadily advancing on Warsaw, in the hope that the Poles would be able to have their own government up and running before the Soviet troops arrived, so that they could have more bargaining power. The Soviets stopped advancing and just sat on the other side of the river while the Nazis brutally put down the uprising, after which they flattened virtually the whole centre of the city. It's impressive the way that they've rebuilt.

Interesting-looking buildings, but what's that in the distance? Do I hear the roll of thunder?

The heavens opened, and the rains began to fall.

We took shelter in a shop selling expensive jewellery and knick-knacks made from amber.

Then the power went out, and we stood around the windows with the other tourists who were just browsing, waiting for the rain to stop.

The rain petered off, and we were able to have a look inside one of the churches there, along with the rest of the huddled masses:

Despite what the photo shows, there were actually quite a few people there.

The Market square was pretty much deserted. One has to wonder whether they intended to have matching umbrellas.

On the way back we stopped to get an umbrella, although not an orange one.

The next day we went to Wilanów palace. Wilanów is actually pronounced Vilanoff.

Some highlights:

Frog versus Crayfish!

The ceiling paintings had great perspective.

That evening we visited Łazienki Park. They were in the middle of an exhibition celebrating orientalism in Polish art and society, hence the lanterns.

Just like Hagley Park during the lantern festival.

There was also a Chinese-style gazebo. We haven't been to Asia yet this trip.

The park is apparently famous for its peacocks, but we only saw one.

Warsaw as a city (the little we saw of it) was great. We'd visit again, and we could have spent more time there, quite happily.

We didn't, however, visit the "achingly modern" Chopin Museum, as our beloved tourist book strangely put it. We are finding a couple of gems in our "Rough Guide to Europe on a Budget" - look out for the next one in the post on Prague.

The next morning we took the bus to Kraków.