Krakow and Wieliczka

From Warsaw we took the train to Krakow, deigning to visit a non-capital city. We didn't regret our condescension! Krakow was great – heaps of tourists, granted, but it had cool old architecture, the best market we've been to yet, a happenin' festival and just a great vibe in general! Not to mention - the discovery of khalva (or helva) in the supermarkets!!! If you don't know what this is, hopefully our later posts from Russia will inform you. In brief, it is a delicious spread for bread/toast. We bought two types: vanilla and chocolate. But back to Krakow!

 A lively performance in the main square.

Sneaky shot from the back. See their feathered caps? Jaunty!

We explored the compact city centre the afternoon of our arrival, discovering the fabulous market in the central square, as well as the familiar horse-drawn carriages and impressive buildings.

an impressive building

We also stumbled upon a Pierogi festival nearby – we wandered down the stalls, and sure enough, every one featured some kind of variation on that particular food. I didn't realise one food type could get enough buzz to get its own festival! I wonder if there are people who travel to Krakow specially at this particular time in order to attend?

A shot of the food festival - all the pierogi you could ever want!

Accompanying the food was a stage for performances, which all seemed pretty good. Again, there was that disconnect due to our lack of comprehension of the lyrics, though.

Maybe angry about something?

Part of the reason for our visit to Krakow was its location as a base for day trips. One of the two trips we took was to the salt mines at Wieliczka. The ticket included a two-hour English tour as we trooped around the various salt tunnels and gazed at salt caverns, statues and, most notably, a great big underground salt cathedral. As we walked around, we were instructed to look down from time to time, and were informed that everything around us was made of salt – including what looked like a stone tiled floor underneath us. It was amazing!

The loooong descent down into the mine.

salt statue #1

so-called "cauliflower" formation due to salt water oozing through the porous rock

salt statue #2

The salt mines had been in operation for centuries. Most of the different tunnels were explored at great risk, dug by hand, and the salt would be hauled out by machines powered by horses and men. Now, of course, it's all electrically lit, with staircases made out of wood, and wooden scaffolding holding up the ceilings. Wood is apparently a good material to use in a place like that, since the salt preserves it.

impressive wooden scaffolding

Since it was such dangerous work, the miners would at first erect little shrines, to pray for protection as they entered a new area to carve out. Soon they were making chapels, and having services underground, and there's a handful of little chapels spread throughout the labyrinth. The main cathedral is still in use today, with mass held every Sunday. They also hold underground concerts down there, in an events hall.

 one of the shrines

The massive underground salt cathedral! Even the chandeliers were made from salt.

Pretty much everything in the salt cathedral was carved by only three men, working in turn, one picking up where the other left off. It took them ages - no wonder. Also - salt statue #3

Salt statue #4. Light coming through the figure to prove that yes, it is indeed made of salt!

One thing we haven't mentioned is John Paul II. He's everywhere in Poland; every second street seems to be named after him, and you can get a bunch of pope memorabilia in the tourist shops. There was, of course, a salt statue of John Paul II in the underground salt cathedral, too.

This isn't Pope John Paul II. This is Krakow's patron dragon, Smok. And it isn't in the underground cathedral.

In the evening, upon our return to Krakow, we explored a bit more of the city by night, which was fun.

an impressive building

another impressive building

Krakow by night

Pope John Paul II Smok the Dragon

 final impressive building

Our second day trip was to Auschwitz-Birkenau, which warrants a separate blog post of its own.