Monday, 6 October 2014

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times...


a.k.a. Travelling in Germany


German motorways: where an unbroken line of trucks and/or campervans pose a terror to no one, but thousands upon thousands of people returning home at the end of the school holidays do.

If you can't handle posts without pictures, skip this one. Hopefully for the rest of you, my lively writing style can pull you through.

A series of unfortunate events

We have found it's considerably cheaper so far, especially without a Eurail pass, to take buses around Europe instead of trains. Consequently, we were delighted to discover we could buy two bus tickets in person for 29 euros each for the journey from Ljubljana to Munich, a deal that wasn't available online. We didn't realise that the day we were travelling, however, 31 August, was apparently the last day of school holidays in Germany.

We got up at the sprightly hour of 6.15 in order to drive the hour's length from Bled down to Ljubljana, in good time for our 9.20am bus.

An omen of things to come was when our bus hadn't arrived by its scheduled departure time. John enquired and found out that it was just delayed; 50 minutes later it rolled up and we boarded. The road out of Slovenia was fine; then came an hour's wait at the Slovenia-Austria border, before a long tunnel. Perhaps the delay was due to something big coming through the tunnel? I had given up my hopes of arriving in Fussen early enough to visit some castles that day, but we still presumed our rental car pick-up in Munich would be fine. Our bus had been scheduled to arrive at 2.15pm, and the rental car office shut at 5pm.

Long periods of being immobile or travelling very slowly on the motorway ensued. While we travelled, John tried in vain to transfer the downloaded map of Germany onto the GPS. [Technical reason: internal memory not sufficient for map size, microSD card not formatted in a way that the GPS could see, and no way of formatting it properly.] By the time we arrived in Munich at 6.30pm, a 5-hour journey having transformed into an 8 and a half hour one, we had cancelled our rental car booking, devised and discarded a plan B, and now determined to head to the airport, where rental car offices should still be open. We had no car and no map of Germany on the GPS – our prognosis wasn't good.

Again, it seemed our plan would be thwarted when the stupidest ticket machine in the history of mankind greeted us (of course, any manned offices were closed); it took only coins and certain debit cards; no credit cards, and no notes, even though there was a slot for them. This made it difficult to pay the hefty 20.80 euros for John and me to get to the airport. Upstairs we went, to the only place that was open, where we had grabbed some takeaway tea before; the very nice girl at the counter kindly changed a 20 euro bill into coins for us without complaint.

Arriving at the airport, now around 8.30, we investigated the various car companies, and realised that the cheapest option here was going to be 100 euros more than the deal we had booked. Never mind; it's only money, right? Money that we were trying to save by booking the bus in the first place... We asked if they rented out GPSes, as well, and he said he'd include that for the same price! Yay! (Turns out it was built into the car.) We located our car, walking past an absolute fleet of rental cars to get there, eventually figured out the German-speaking GPS, and John drove the 2 hours to Fussen, to our place of accommodation. We were so thankful we had booked one of the random places where you just get sent a key code to let yourself in, so you don't actually see anyone and it makes no difference what time you arrive. We arrived shortly after midnight, and decided to go straight to bed. Our 18-hour day had been rather tiring.

The best of times

Over the next couple of days, we discovered how German motorways were supposed to work. We had inadvertently hired a relatively powerful diesel car – much more grunt than our first (cheapest) choice would have been – and we made good use of it. Fantastic roads, permanent two (or three) lanes and open speed limits saw us trucking along at an average of 140kph. Slow vehicles were a non-issue; slow vehicles passing slightly slower vehicles was the problem (slow = 120kph or less). Three lanes were the best. The fastest speed we got up to was 200kph, briefly!

Driver's perspective: I can see why some cars come with a sixth gear. The inbuilt GPS was in German (obviously) so we got to listen to a robot lady telling us things we didn't understand. At least arrows are universal, and we got an audio warning when we were meant to do something. I'm not sure if that speedo was accurate, but it was beginning to feel unsafe travelling at 200kph, so we didn't do that for long. It's strange when travelling 140kph becomes the norm and anything less feels like dawdling.

Another unfortunate event

Then it was back to sedate bus-travel from Munich up to Berlin. We had initially considered booking a 9-hour trip, 11am-8pm, but when we looked again the next day a shorter trip, 11.30am-6.30pm, was available for the same price! Done!

This trip was with a different bus company, so I was sure it would be better. As soon as we boarded, I was convinced I was right; this was a double-decker – instantly cooler! We sat on the top level, of course. Furthermore, we had a power socket for the laptop and even internet, at least to start with. We were sorted.

There were a few minor traffic delays, mainly due to roadworks, where we were going truly slowly, not just 100km-slowly. Then, at about 6pm, the bus got a flat tyre. At various points throughout the trip the bus driver updated the passengers on what was happening, and evidently he was a funny guy, 'cos there were always chuckles from the passengers when he spoke, but we had absolutely no idea what was going on. The helpful texts in German we received from the bus company didn't really help either. The flat tyre, however – that was something we could work out ourselves.

After a two-hour wait by the side of the road, we were off again! A wee while later, the bus driver said something again, and everybody clapped at the end, so we presumed that was a good sign. We finally arrived in Berlin at 9.30pm. And so, again, a 7-hour trip became a 10-hour one. We are considering booking trains more frequently in future. [Update: the bus company this time, Meinfernbus, sent us a code for two free bus tickets from them in the future, which was nice! So we may yet board another bus!]

Our final transport challenge that day came once we arrived in Berlin and got on the underground train. It travelled to two stations, then stopped and we heard an announcement that due to construction works, the train stopped here. We almost couldn’t believe our fortune. We worked out that there were signs pointing to where a (very crowded) bus waited to transport us overground to the missing stops, before dropping us off at a subway station further on, where we got back on the underground. This experience wasn’t too dramatic, but the combination of everything made me wonder if coming to Germany would prove to be worth it!

For an account of what we actually did and saw in Germany, come back next time!

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