Spain is a place that I didn't really
have any interest in visiting. I didn't really see the point of it,
sitting there on the Iberian peninsula along with Portugal.
Anna managed to squeeze it in though,
and so we found ourselves trundling along to Barcelona from Lyon (Note: when booking trains to and from Spain, Leon does not equal
Lyon).
We hit Barcelona in the afternoon, and
then Barcelona hit back. It must have been around 30, which after
France was a nice change to warmer temperatures. Also happening at the
same time was (you guessed it) another festival! This time it was La Mercè, a religious holiday commemorating Our Lady of Mercy. That evening we walked around a local park which had
some of the festival events happening. There were puppets, kids' rides, fairground games, buskers, dance routines, comic shows and acrobats who, as far as we saw, were only ever perpetually warming up - fun for the whole family.
Here's a video of a musical fountain in action. It's quite long though.
Some things to be aware of about
Barcelona (and I suppose Spain in general):
Siesta is a thing; most shops will be
shut from around 2pm till at least 4. With the temperatures we've
been experiencing, even in autumn, I can see why.
Catalunya (the part of Spain that
Barcelona is in) has its own language, and a very organised
secession movement. There are Catalan independence flags everywhere.
Perhaps this is due to the fact that they're going to be voting on it
soon. Since we're not sure about how people feel about the Spanish
language, whether or not it's analogous to the Russian language in
Lithuania, I thought I'd save my tiny smidgen of Spanish until we're
in a place where they speak it, although it sounded to me like a cross between Spanish and French.
One thing we normally do in a city is wander around the old town. This one had opera buskers, old churches, and plenty of tourist shops with overly attentive (read pushy) salespersons. After a few of those encounters we decided to avoid those shops.
One of the important things to see in
Barcelona is the Magic Fountain. Normally this involves standing in
front of the fountain with a group of other tourists watching as the
fountain twists the water into different shapes, morphing as the
coloured lights and the directional nozzles change the fountain from
looking like a frothing blue mouthwash golem, to a seething mass of
blood red sea serpents, or a geyser of orange juice. All of this
while accompanied by the sounds of whatever series of pop songs are
popular at the time.
Apparently there's a tradition in
Barcelona of a big fireworks spectacular accompanying the fountain on the final evening
of the festival. We were sold.
9:30pm rolls around and we're sitting
in the middle of the road along with thousands of other people
waiting for the show. There is one road that gives the best view, and
we managed to get a spot about halfway down the road, and about in
the middle.
Waiting for the show.
The show started with the face of an
old man, presumably telling the story of Catalunya.
It felt a little like 1984.
Of course with a story of any place
there is always talk of war.
You can see everyone's cameras and phones.
Big Brother is watching you. Or is shouting at you or something.
At the end of the show there was a
point where everyone pulled out sparklers and lit them. I think this
might have been during a national or regional song.
All in all I feel that it was a better
fireworks show than the one in Disneyland.
Oh, all the while this was happening
the fountain would do various things adding to the show.
Another thing about Barcelona is the
Art Nouveau movement that has contributed many buildings to the city.
We visited two of these, and while they're amazing, and you should
definitely check them out if you get a chance, I don't really dig the
aesthetic.
Casa Batllo is one such building. It's
amazing to think that such a thing was designed in the late 1800s but
not only designed, actually built too, and it was lived in.
No straight lines. The audio guide kept telling us that it was a jewel of Barcelona.
The Lightwell - basically a skylight that goes all the way to the bottom floor. The tiles are lighter at the bottom than the top to make it look bright all the way down.
The other building is the Sagrada
Familia. If you're going to visit the Sagrada Familia, make sure that
you book ahead of time, or it might be difficult to get access.
The Sagrada Familia is a church
building designed by Gaudi in the late 1800s. Its construction has
been a bit stop and go, due to funding difficulties, so you
can see the parts that are recent and the parts that are over a century old.
It's still under construction, and seen from a distance it looms over
the city. It'll be much taller once it is complete. I hope to visit
it once it is finally finished, although at the historical rate of
construction it might be for my 100th birthday.
As for the building itself, it's
something you'll have to see pictures of to appreciate. Here are
some I prepared earlier:
Under construction.
the Nativity facade
inside, with pillars designed to look like graceful trees
the ceiling, in the distance
stained glass windows
The details were amazing. Here's a door.
So far on this trip we've tried to keep
costs down by doing free things. The problem with this is when things
cease to be free. I'm assuming it's to do with economic reasons
(“Well duh,” I hear you say. “Macro economic reasons,”
I reply, “Global Financial Crisis et.al”) but out of the three
free things we'd decided to do that afternoon, all of them have
recently started charging an entry fee. Since we were still on the
whole Gaudi kick, we visited a hospital that he designed (and found
out that they now charge for entry) and Guell park (another Gaudi
design, they charge for entry for some of it). We're not such huge
fans of Gaudi that we'd pay the entrance fees (these things add up),
so we walked around in the park and managed to see the main sights in the paying section by peering over the fence, then decided to go to the Castle
Montjuic, and got hit with the prospect of another entrance fee. Lame.
We got to see the Mediterranean though, so that was nice.
One more place that we went to: Poble
Español. It's a
collection of buildings which replicate some of the different
regional styles of buildings in Spain, with restaurants, clubs, and
souvenir shops populating the inside of the buildings. We paid the
night rate to get in, and wandered around the streets looking at all
the buildings.
That evening we saw the regular version
of the magical fountain, and while it was magical, it didn't really
come close to the one we'd seen the night before.
That about wraps it up for Barcelona.
We really enjoyed it, and would recommend that you come some time that's
not during the heat of summer, like we did.
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